The first time I peeled off a gel manicure at home, I was horrified.
What started as a flawless, glossy set of nails quickly turned into thin, peeling, brittle wreck. Mortified doesn’t even begin to cover it. And according to experts, this is hardly an isolated incident. "Most of the damage from gel manicures comes from improper removal, not necessarily the gel itself," says Dana Stern, MD a dermatologist who specializes in nail health and an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the Mount Sinai Medical Center. In fact, a study from the Miami School of Medicine show that gel manicures can cause measurable nail thinning over time, especially when removal isn't done properly.
Meet our experts: Dana Stern, MD, is a dermatologist who specializes in nail health and an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the Mount Sinai Medical Center. Erica De Los Santos is a nail artist based in New York City and founder of Nail’d It Beauty Lounge. Lily Nguyen is a celebrity manicurist and co-founder of Labo Beaute Salon. Chris Adigun, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Dermatology & Laser Center of Chapel Hill. Victoria Briand, PhD is the director of research and development at OPI.
Aside from the removal process, there is damaged baked into the treatment itself: Gel manicures work by applying layers of gel polish that cure under UV or LED light, and this UV exposure can lead to nail dehydration, brittleness, and even premature aging of the skin around the nails over time.
So how does one keep their nails healthy without giving up that beautiful, long-lasting shine? We asked a panel of top experts to share the gel alternatives worth trying—and what you can realistically expect from each.
Long-Lasting Polish
One of the easiest swaps is switching to long-wear polish systems. These formulas offer the high-shine finish and extended wear of a gel manicure, without the UV lamp or soak-off removal. "For clients who want a gel-like look without UV exposure, these are fantastic," says Erica De Los Santos, a nail artist based in New York City and founder of Nail’d It Beauty Lounge.
So, how do they work?
Compared to traditional polish, long-wear formulas contain higher concentrations of polymer resins that form a more robust, flexible film on the nail. Chip resistance and a long-lasting finish come down to durability, flexibility, and shine retention. “When the films are less brittle, they’re less likely to crack and chip,” explains Victoria Briand, PhD, Director of Research and Development at OPI. “A higher amount is needed to create a more durable film that resists chipping.”
According to Essie’s Research & Innovation team, the brand’s Gel By Essie line uses a novel resin never before used in the cosmetic industry to significantly enhance both adhesion and shine. What's more, the topcoat utilizes a technology that achieves a gel-like shine comparable to UV-cured polishes—without needing a lamp. "I love that it strengthens the natural nail," making it a great choice for anyone wanting easy removal with less damage, adds Lily Nguyen is a celebrity manicurist and co-founder of Labo Beaute Salon.
Two Longwear Polishes We Love
Dip Powder
Dip powder manicures continue to be a favorite for anyone looking for serious longevity. The technique involves layering a resin base coat with colored acrylic powder, building strength and thickness directly on the nail without a UV light. Once sealed, the result is a durable manicure that can easily last up to three weeks with minimal chipping. “Dip powder can help clients grow their natural nails longer and stronger if applied and removed properly,” says Erica De Los Santos. She also notes that many dip powders are formulated with nail-supportive ingredients like calcium and vitamin E, which can help protect and strengthen nails over time.
In addition to their durability, one major benefit of dip systems is that they don’t require scraping during removal, which is often the case with gels. “Dip powder can be soaked off more gently, minimizing trauma to the natural nail,” De Los Santos explains. That said, hygiene is key. Nguyen recommends choosing salons that use the pour-over method, where powder is sprinkled over each nail rather than dipping fingers into a shared jar to avoid potential contamination.
Nail Polish Strips
Temporary options like press-ons and these fun strips are a great way to experiment with bold colors and artwork, but they're just that: temporary. Neither can match gels from a longevity standpoint, but strips come out on top when it comes to removal—they're far easier and less damaging to take off than press-ons.
Made from real nail polish, these strips adhere directly to the nail with zero drying time. "They’re perfect for people who like switching up their look often," says De Los Santos. While they may not have the same thickness or hardness as a gel manicure, they offer a more lightweight feel and are much easier to remove. You'll simply need regular nail polish remover, no soaking or scraping required. For more stubborn strips, apply cuticle oil to each nail and use a cuticle stick to gently and slowly lift the strip without damaging the nail underneath.
Also worth noting is that with proper prep and care, most nail polish strips can last around seven to ten days before showing signs of wear.
Great Strips We Love
Builder Gel and Builder in a Bottle (BIAB)
For those who still crave a bit more strength, builder gels and Builder in a Bottle BIAB (pronounced bee-abb) are smart choices. Both one-step paint-on options reinforce natural nails and can help add lightweight extensions, making them ideal for anyone prone to breakage. “Builder gel is a thicker, sculptable gel made from methacrylate-based polymers,” says Nguyen. It’s applied in layers, cured under a UV or LED lamp, then shaped and sealed with a top coat.
BIAB works similarly but is packaged like polish for easier application. “It’s a one-step product with base, strengthener, and color in one,” Nguyen explains. "Builder gels are great for creating length and a thicker nail structure while BIAB is softer, soak-off friendly, and ideal for reinforcing natural nails."
De Los Santos points out that these systems are maintained with fills rather than complete removals, which reduces the stress on your nails over time. With proper care, and depending on how quickly your nails grow, these systems can last up to three to four weeks.
Rubber Base Gel
If your nails tend to chip, peel, or break just when they start to grow, rubber base gel might be your savior in a bottle. This thicker, more flexible version of a traditional gel base coat is designed to strengthen brittle nails without sacrificing comfort or flexibility. Unlike regular base coats used with traditional polish, rubber base gel is formulated for gel systems and must be cured under a UV or LED lamp. “It’s made with gel polymers and additives that create a stretchy, supportive feel,” explains De Los Santos. “That extra thickness helps it adhere better to the natural nail and offers flexibility, which protects brittle nails from cracking or lifting.”
De Los Santos describes rubber base gel as a cushiony shock absorber that encourages nail growth while creating a smooth foundation for gel color or builder layers. It’s a great option for anyone looking for nail strength without the thickness. Rubber base gels are widely available from professional nail brands, both online and in stores. For best results, look for formulas that are well-reviewed, commonly used in salons, or recommended by licensed nail techs.
Fiber Gel
When your nails are too weak for regular gel but you don’t want the thickness of acrylics, fiber gels strikes a smart balance. These formulas are infused with tiny fiberglass particles that help reinforce the nail plate, offering lightweight strength and durability without bulk. “Fiber gel, like the one from Young Nails, is designed to add strength without the bulk,” explains De Los Santos. “It contains keratin and other nail-supportive ingredients that help maintain the integrity of the natural nail, making it ideal for clients with brittle or damaged nails.”
The fiberglass particles are built directly into the gel itself, helping to create a flexible yet supportive overlay. While not a treatment in the traditional sense, fiber gels create a protective barrier that shields fragile nails from daily wear and tear. “Over time, the keratin and bonding agents in fiber gels can help protect the natural nail from breakage, allowing it to grow out healthier underneath the overlay,” says De Los Santos.
Another key benefit? Fiber gels are less damaging than many traditional gel systems because they don’t need to be completely soaked off at each appointment. “They can be gently refilled or rebased, which helps preserve the natural nail underneath,” she explains. This minimizes both acetone exposure and excessive filing. With proper prep and care, a fiber gel manicure can last up to three weeks before needing a touch-up—making it a smart option for anyone looking to support nail growth without sacrificing strength or flexibility.
Hybrid Gel Systems
Think of hybrid gel systems as the smart, modern upgrade to acrylics: lighter, gentler, and far easier to live with. Innovations like KISS Salon X-tend, Aprés Gel-X, and Polygel combine the structure of acrylic with the flexibility of gel. Hybrid systems typically come in two forms: soft gel extensions and putty-like hybrid gels (also known as Polygel or Acrygel). Soft gel tips are pre-shaped and applied using a gel adhesive, then cured under a UV or LED lamp for a snug, natural fit. “They don’t require harsh primers or strong acids that dehydrate the nail plate,” says Nguyen. “And their flexible structure reduces lifting and breaking, which means less trauma to the natural nail.”
For Polygel-style systems, the product is molded directly onto the nail. “After prepping the nail, you dip your brush in a slip solution to help shape the gel, then sculpt it onto the nail and cure,” Nguyen explains. “Once it’s cured, you file to refine the shape and finish with a top coat.” These formulas don’t self-level like builder gels, but their dense texture allows for precise shaping.
For removal, both soft gel extensions and hybrid gels are soak-off friendly—a big advantage over traditional acrylics. Simply file down the top layer to break the seal, then soak in acetone to lift the product away gently. So long as they’re applied and removed properly, hybrid gels offer a less damaging alternative to more aggressive enhancement systems.
The bottom line
Regardless of the alternative you choose, proper prep, removal, and nail aftercare are crucial. Dr. Stern advises applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen to your hands before any light exposure and using strengthening treatments between manicures. "Look for ingredients like vitamin E, biotin, and calcium," she says.
And above all, never peel or pick off polish—any polish. It's a mistake that Dr. Adigun warns can strip away the nail's protective layers and lead to long-term damage.
Deena Campbell
Deena Campbell is a beauty editor, writer, and content strategist with over a decade of experience in print and digital media. She most recently served as Beauty Director at Marie Claire, and has held editorial roles at Allure.com, Essence.com, and L’Oréal’s Makeup.com and Skincare.com. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, SELF, Refinery29, Byrdie, and more. Deena is also a trusted consultant for top beauty brands and lives in New Jersey with her husband and two children.
Reviewed byBrian Underwood
Beauty Director
Brian Underwood is beauty director at Women’s Health, where he oversees content strategy for the brand across all platforms, including digital, print, and social. Underwood previously served as beauty and wellness director at Oprah Daily and O, The Oprah Magazine. During his tenure leading beauty content for the Oprah brand at Hearst, stories Underwood commissioned were awarded the Skin Cancer Foundation Media Award and a Fragrance Award for Editorial Excellence (his second). He was the launch Beauty Director of Dr. Oz THE GOOD LIFE, and has held additional editorial positions at Fitness, Organic Style, Good Housekeeping, Life & Style Weekly, and Woman’s Day and has written for Self, Shape, Seventeen, Redbook, Cosmopolitan, and many more. Underwood previously served on the Skin Cancer Foundation’s gala committee and as partnerships director of the Trans Beauty Clinic, a New York-based charitable organization that provided beauty services and workshops to the city’s trans community.